Vagabond Jim first encouraged me to use this program.
BBEdit definitely requires some pretty thorough knowledge of the medium - it won't really do HTML for you. But if you know the basics and have an exploratory spirit you will find that BBEdit accomodates your web making powers quite well. and if you're used to using something like emacs, bbedit does give you a lot of support.
Bare Bones Software makes BBEdit.
Allaire's HomeSite has a directory/file browser window, which is nice. It also nice multiple page editing easinesses, like tabs along a consistent HomeSite pane window but I think that's an accomodation to sucky Windows inflexibility.